Its been a week now and the Matrix has asserted itself. The reality of cycling day in, day out, is fading. Before it all goes here are some thoughts and thanks.
Firstly, the ride is doable by most people if you are a) reasonably cycling fit or b) bloody minded and determined. Its helps being both. The enormity of the distance and unknown nature of the hills ahead was off putting at the start, but by breaking it down into chunks and focusing on the next hill, descent, turning, or tea room it was doable. Then it was just a case of getting up each day and doing it again. And again for 15 groundhog days. Having good kit helps, especially waterproofs. Oh, and a bike.
It would not however have been possible without my Stoker. She allowed the escapade to take shape, then reformed it into a tandem ride. She was always in good humour, with a smile and support (except when dumped into a bed of nettles). She was the positive one, even after the St Neots transcendental experience, whereas sometimes I wondered what we had got into with the dark clouds and hosing down from the heavens. And she did pedal hard, despite the comments from many we passed "hey, you know she not pedalling at the back". Ha ha not after the umpteenth time.
Bike Adventures were excellent. Kevin's routes were as off road as you can get without being off road, and avoided the traffic at the expense of some hills. But what goes up comes down as we found, and unfortunately also vice versa. The B&B's were as good as you could get in the localities, the campsite teas were welcoming, and the backup with vans and sweepers was reassuring (and we did require support once). In particular thank you Ian for easing me into Robin Thorn's idiosyncratic priority process...hence
next has to be Robin Thorn from SJS Cycles in Bridgwater who supplied a superb Thorn Raven Discovery Marathon Tandem in an afternoon. We couldn't have broken down in a better place in the UK. The Ride was rescued.
The other riders made the trip. We met nearly all of the 37, though some of the campsiters were fleeting greetings. Though circumstances meant we spent most time with our 'lodging' set, all were unfailing helpful, positive, supportive, humorous and in some cases hysterically so. I can't mention everyone by name, so I won't mention any except Martin who rode with Cherry on her solo day, and Rita who acted as bell hop with luggage, concierge for booking dinner, and washer woman with the laundry.
The planning for the ride, with the enroute direction turns, were made possible and enjoyable with www.bikehike.co.uk. I was able to plot the routes for each day then download to the Garmin, giving reassurance we were on course, or as sometimes happened had missed a turning. Please use this site for route planning and though free you can make small donations to cover their costs on their home page.
The Garmin Edge 605 hardware worked as advertised and remained waterproof. But not so with the Garmin software testing and release process. Just before the Ride I upload V2.7, only to find that it failed to keep the history detail of tracks, only the summary. I just uploaded a patch fix V2.8 and it has erased everything, I remain to see if it now works. Not impressed.
I was impressed though with www.instamapper.com. This has an app for the Blackberry which allowed sending and logging our route realtime on a website, all for free. Worked solidly in the background. Others could see our progress throughout the day.
Finally, the UK countryside is superb. Get away from the south east and the towns, and its upliftingly green (we now know first hand why that is), pastoral and Shire-like. Tolkien knew this. The people we met were delightfully friendly and some donated without prompting, for example an unnamed pensioner who gave 5 pounds. The Hodgsons gave us a wonderful welcome in Clitheroe. The Crask Inn and their quirky service. Too many to mention. Thank you all.
And thank you fair reader for staying the course with us.
2009/06/21 - JOG to Bahrain via Inverness, Luton and Chorleywood
Early breakfast was supposed to have been arranged at 7:30, but the dining room was silent and locked. The mob was fretting at the door, and it was opened 10 minutes late. We overwelmed the single serving lady, but all managed to get fed in the end before the coach arrived at 8:10.
The sun was out, and Scotland looked lovely. In fact was lovely. We dozed on the coach, waking up every so often to see the coast. Dropped off some at Inverness station, then to the airport by 11:30. No flight till the one we have booked at 4pm.
Cherry found that Starbucks at the airport have caramel slices so we shared one. The last of the "holiday". I promise. We bought the Sunday Times and read and chatted with the others, including someone from Somerset who had done the route in a similar time to us.
It still hasn't sunk in yet, the enormity of what we have achieved. I couldn't have done it without my Stoker and her support. More musing and afterthoughts later.
Chris & family picked us up at Luton, popped round to see Mum, meal at Peppermill in Chroleywood, unpack, repack, shower and bed. Up early next day for Cherry to give me a lift to T5 for the 10:40 to Bahrain on her way back to work.
Back to reality, or was the cycling reality?
The sun was out, and Scotland looked lovely. In fact was lovely. We dozed on the coach, waking up every so often to see the coast. Dropped off some at Inverness station, then to the airport by 11:30. No flight till the one we have booked at 4pm.
Cherry found that Starbucks at the airport have caramel slices so we shared one. The last of the "holiday". I promise. We bought the Sunday Times and read and chatted with the others, including someone from Somerset who had done the route in a similar time to us.
It still hasn't sunk in yet, the enormity of what we have achieved. I couldn't have done it without my Stoker and her support. More musing and afterthoughts later.
Chris & family picked us up at Luton, popped round to see Mum, meal at Peppermill in Chroleywood, unpack, repack, shower and bed. Up early next day for Cherry to give me a lift to T5 for the 10:40 to Bahrain on her way back to work.
Back to reality, or was the cycling reality?
2009/06/20 - Day 15 - Bettyhill to John o'Groats - 63.15 miles in 6:06
What a difference a day makes. It set before we went to bed, and dawned before we woke up, and hadn't got dark all night. THE SUN WAS SHINING.
For the first 19 miles the road had long ups and downs and felt hard work, but the sunshine and views of the Orkneys and rolling countryside kept us going.
We stopped at the Reay village store for Irn-Bru, coffee, caramels slices and a bag of fruit jellies, sitting on a bench outside by the petrol pumps.
Bliss. We were almost there. Then past the decommissioned Dounreay nuclear power station, with contrasting wind turbines in the background. The road was flatter and easier. Lunch at a coffee shop in Thurso (quiche and pie) where the waitress who cleared the tables was very grumpy and banged all the crockery onto her tray. She, like most of Thurso, was rather too large.
A side detour to Dunnet Head light house, the most northly point on the british mainland. 13 miles to go. Lots of cows, horses and sheep and surprisingly many habitations.
Then we rolled into John o'groats. An anti-climax almost as it wasn't the effort of finishing a marathon exhausted, each day had started afresh. We went to the signpost for pictures and we suddenly surrounded by 20 merry (i.e. drunk) young attractive slim girls on Sarah's Hen Party. They were from Thurso so they were unlikely to stay that slim for long. They clambered over us and the bike and many pictures were taken. Congratulations all round.
Peter and Steve breezed in and we took each others pictures, including one by the Finish line by the boarded up old Hotel. To adjacent campsite for bubbly and cakes and more mutual congratulations.
To finish off the ride, 6 extra miles to Duncansby Head for the most easterly point (JOG is the most inhabited NE point) where we met the "Three Musketeers" and their rubber swords bought in Fort William, and the off rode tandemers who the Crask Inn had told us about. They were serious riders and made us feel amateurs.
Back to JOG for final group photos.
(the rell ball between Big Carl's thighs must be due to either chafing or anticipation).
Evening was a group meal in Seaview Hotel, served efficiently unlike the previous night. I couldn't break with tradition and went to bed before 10. Fell asleep straightaway despite the noise from the bar below where the locals were celebrating JOG beating St Andrews 4-0. No idea at what. Coach comes at 8am to take us to Inverness.
Garmin says we logged 1,053.7 miles in 104 hrs 20 mins on the road. Our average speed increased throughout the week.
For the first 19 miles the road had long ups and downs and felt hard work, but the sunshine and views of the Orkneys and rolling countryside kept us going.
We stopped at the Reay village store for Irn-Bru, coffee, caramels slices and a bag of fruit jellies, sitting on a bench outside by the petrol pumps.
Bliss. We were almost there. Then past the decommissioned Dounreay nuclear power station, with contrasting wind turbines in the background. The road was flatter and easier. Lunch at a coffee shop in Thurso (quiche and pie) where the waitress who cleared the tables was very grumpy and banged all the crockery onto her tray. She, like most of Thurso, was rather too large.
A side detour to Dunnet Head light house, the most northly point on the british mainland. 13 miles to go. Lots of cows, horses and sheep and surprisingly many habitations.
Then we rolled into John o'groats. An anti-climax almost as it wasn't the effort of finishing a marathon exhausted, each day had started afresh. We went to the signpost for pictures and we suddenly surrounded by 20 merry (i.e. drunk) young attractive slim girls on Sarah's Hen Party. They were from Thurso so they were unlikely to stay that slim for long. They clambered over us and the bike and many pictures were taken. Congratulations all round.
Peter and Steve breezed in and we took each others pictures, including one by the Finish line by the boarded up old Hotel. To adjacent campsite for bubbly and cakes and more mutual congratulations.
To finish off the ride, 6 extra miles to Duncansby Head for the most easterly point (JOG is the most inhabited NE point) where we met the "Three Musketeers" and their rubber swords bought in Fort William, and the off rode tandemers who the Crask Inn had told us about. They were serious riders and made us feel amateurs.
Back to JOG for final group photos.
(the rell ball between Big Carl's thighs must be due to either chafing or anticipation).
Evening was a group meal in Seaview Hotel, served efficiently unlike the previous night. I couldn't break with tradition and went to bed before 10. Fell asleep straightaway despite the noise from the bar below where the locals were celebrating JOG beating St Andrews 4-0. No idea at what. Coach comes at 8am to take us to Inverness.
Garmin says we logged 1,053.7 miles in 104 hrs 20 mins on the road. Our average speed increased throughout the week.
2009/06/19 - Day 14 - Evanton to Bettyhill - 76 miles in 6:50
A caramel slice free day. 
Day started sunny. We were picked up to go to the campsite, and left there about 9:30.
The road climbed for some way then down to Bonar bridge where we had cofee, tea, scone, a mars bar krispi slice and 2 marshmallow chocolate tiffin slices. I missed my caramel slice.
Then it started to rain, increasingly. So we had multiple stops with increasing clothing put on as the rain increased. The wind increased and was gusting sideways. The rain was cold and drenching. We passed by the Falls of Shin but didn't stop, and Cherry got into a singing mode so for the next hour we had her whole repertoire. I pedalled harder to get away from the noise. The road was up and unrelenting. It was grim, the worst so far. We had been told that after the open moor the road went through forest so we were looking forward to a break from the wind, but it had recently been logged so no respite. But the legs and lungs were good. It got grimmer and more buffetting and more desolate, till at 44 miles we came to the only hostelery on the route, the Crask Inn.
Everyone was there, the bar was full of wet clothes and wet bodies, slurping soup and sitting on the log closed fire to warm up. What a unique place. The owners were slightly doddery and didn't seem in control. In fact they weren't in control. 2 ladies who were camping in the garden (their husbands were climbing Ben Hope) saw the chaos and took over the bar and kitchen. Food flew out to be hoovered up. The soup turned from veg, to pea and ham, to lentil then ran out. The ham sandwiches ran out, the cheese ran out. Only bread remained. But when the mob had left and we remained, the owner produced some of her homemade muffins which we scoffed. Payment was an honour system as no records had been kept. What a great place to find when wet and hungry.
We started again at 4pm with 29 miles to go. The rain had stopped, no sun and still wind. A very short climb to the top of Crask hill, then the highlight of day - 20 miles of ideal tandeming downhill and flat/undulating by a loch and the River Never. We flew, banking round corners. We blew Martin away. Our pedals had wings. Our spirits soared.
Then it started to rain again, and the wind turned into a headwind. But we had only 7 miles to go, and the seagulls heralded the sea, which we were expecting to see around every corner. Well, we didn't till the very end where we crossed the Never and climbed up to Bettyhill.
I hestitated to pass the hotel and go down the other side to the campsite, but Cherry being social said we should call in for tea and cakes. It was worth it especially as we could leave our bike and walk back up the hill.
Our room looks out to the front and the beach and sea. Gorgeous. Dinner was problematical with 2 Czech girls who seem to be the only staff in the hotel overwelmed by the crowd, despite us having pre-ordered. Iain's (2 Is) parents came over from their croft just 20 miles away and survived the banter. I fell alseep and had to come up to bed before my bread and butter pudding arrived. Cherry said everyone else enjoyed it.
Then it started to rain, increasingly. So we had multiple stops with increasing clothing put on as the rain increased. The wind increased and was gusting sideways. The rain was cold and drenching. We passed by the Falls of Shin but didn't stop, and Cherry got into a singing mode so for the next hour we had her whole repertoire. I pedalled harder to get away from the noise. The road was up and unrelenting. It was grim, the worst so far. We had been told that after the open moor the road went through forest so we were looking forward to a break from the wind, but it had recently been logged so no respite. But the legs and lungs were good. It got grimmer and more buffetting and more desolate, till at 44 miles we came to the only hostelery on the route, the Crask Inn.
Everyone was there, the bar was full of wet clothes and wet bodies, slurping soup and sitting on the log closed fire to warm up. What a unique place. The owners were slightly doddery and didn't seem in control. In fact they weren't in control. 2 ladies who were camping in the garden (their husbands were climbing Ben Hope) saw the chaos and took over the bar and kitchen. Food flew out to be hoovered up. The soup turned from veg, to pea and ham, to lentil then ran out. The ham sandwiches ran out, the cheese ran out. Only bread remained. But when the mob had left and we remained, the owner produced some of her homemade muffins which we scoffed. Payment was an honour system as no records had been kept. What a great place to find when wet and hungry.
We started again at 4pm with 29 miles to go. The rain had stopped, no sun and still wind. A very short climb to the top of Crask hill, then the highlight of day - 20 miles of ideal tandeming downhill and flat/undulating by a loch and the River Never. We flew, banking round corners. We blew Martin away. Our pedals had wings. Our spirits soared.
Then it started to rain again, and the wind turned into a headwind. But we had only 7 miles to go, and the seagulls heralded the sea, which we were expecting to see around every corner. Well, we didn't till the very end where we crossed the Never and climbed up to Bettyhill.
I hestitated to pass the hotel and go down the other side to the campsite, but Cherry being social said we should call in for tea and cakes. It was worth it especially as we could leave our bike and walk back up the hill.Our room looks out to the front and the beach and sea. Gorgeous. Dinner was problematical with 2 Czech girls who seem to be the only staff in the hotel overwelmed by the crowd, despite us having pre-ordered. Iain's (2 Is) parents came over from their croft just 20 miles away and survived the banter. I fell alseep and had to come up to bed before my bread and butter pudding arrived. Cherry said everyone else enjoyed it.
2009/06/18 - Day 13 - Fort William to Evanton - 85 mile in 7:30
Longest distance. Rain. Then showers. But feeling fine now. Poor Vodafone dongle internet so more tomorrow.
--------------------
Moved laptop to corner of room and managed to get the hotel wifi. We are so far north we haven't noticed the dark.
The day started very very wet. I dressed prepared for battle with 3/4 length bib tights, 2 shirts, my fleece, rain legs and goretex, and all crevices fully vaselined as we found the Udderly Smooth Chamois Cream was washed off by the water.
It was like someone was throwing buckets of water over us. But the gear held up, and the fleece kept the clammy inside of the goretex off the skin.
There were some track options, but we like most, stuck to the A82 to Inverness. We stopped for teas, scones and soup at the Invergary Hotel after 20 miles at 12:00. No caramel slices so had to manage with a twix which is no substitute for the real thing. Of course it stopped raining when we went in the hotel, and started again when we left.
The road went along the lochs, including Loch Ness, and was fast going as there was nothing else to do and we wanted to get it over and done with. Then the sun came out at time, and the rain became normal pitter patter type rain. I removed the fleece as I was getting too hot, but thats better than being too cold.
Tea was at Drumnadrochit where we met up with some others. Tea and caramel slices, plus I had an "empire biscuit" which was a "jam dodger" with iceing and a jelly on top. Real "Just William" food. We started off sitting outside, but the rain moved us inside. Ken and Big Nige were sounding very fed up with the weather, but we were fine.
Then the climb out, off the A82 now on a minor road to Beauly. 15% for 3/4 mile. Cherry was negative at the thought, but we trundled up with a short stop for the breather near the top. Legs must be getting fitter, and certainly the thighs are expanding into tree trunks. A lovely run then down a broad valley with sunshine and light showers. We got in the groove and and upped the pace as the miles ticked away.
Final climb was out of Dingwall to the Old Eventon Road (signposted "The North avoiding low bridge". We should have risked the low bridge as the road when up, right, up again, the up again. I de-goretexed as I was still too hot, as we went through lighter showers with views over the estuary with oil rigs off Inverness and down to the campsite for tea and jam donoughts. Just in time as the heavans opened again (cliches were invented for this). We got a lift to our hotel, The Teanich Castle (just off the Teanich Industrial Estate in Alness!) which looked grand from the outside but rooms were sparse and no bath, only a shower which disappointed the Stoker. We used the dimplex radiators to dry our clothes and I burned my socks on the top of one so there is some validity in the warnings not to leave articles touching them.
Fine dinner in hotel with Carl & Rita. Big Carl looked tired with the riding which was gratifying for us as he is a hard man on the bike. I was in bed by 9:45 while Cherry interneted for the weather tomorrow. Guess what - rain to start, the sunny showers.
--------------------
Moved laptop to corner of room and managed to get the hotel wifi. We are so far north we haven't noticed the dark.
The day started very very wet. I dressed prepared for battle with 3/4 length bib tights, 2 shirts, my fleece, rain legs and goretex, and all crevices fully vaselined as we found the Udderly Smooth Chamois Cream was washed off by the water.
It was like someone was throwing buckets of water over us. But the gear held up, and the fleece kept the clammy inside of the goretex off the skin.
There were some track options, but we like most, stuck to the A82 to Inverness. We stopped for teas, scones and soup at the Invergary Hotel after 20 miles at 12:00. No caramel slices so had to manage with a twix which is no substitute for the real thing. Of course it stopped raining when we went in the hotel, and started again when we left.
The road went along the lochs, including Loch Ness, and was fast going as there was nothing else to do and we wanted to get it over and done with. Then the sun came out at time, and the rain became normal pitter patter type rain. I removed the fleece as I was getting too hot, but thats better than being too cold.
Tea was at Drumnadrochit where we met up with some others. Tea and caramel slices, plus I had an "empire biscuit" which was a "jam dodger" with iceing and a jelly on top. Real "Just William" food. We started off sitting outside, but the rain moved us inside. Ken and Big Nige were sounding very fed up with the weather, but we were fine.
Then the climb out, off the A82 now on a minor road to Beauly. 15% for 3/4 mile. Cherry was negative at the thought, but we trundled up with a short stop for the breather near the top. Legs must be getting fitter, and certainly the thighs are expanding into tree trunks. A lovely run then down a broad valley with sunshine and light showers. We got in the groove and and upped the pace as the miles ticked away.
Final climb was out of Dingwall to the Old Eventon Road (signposted "The North avoiding low bridge". We should have risked the low bridge as the road when up, right, up again, the up again. I de-goretexed as I was still too hot, as we went through lighter showers with views over the estuary with oil rigs off Inverness and down to the campsite for tea and jam donoughts. Just in time as the heavans opened again (cliches were invented for this). We got a lift to our hotel, The Teanich Castle (just off the Teanich Industrial Estate in Alness!) which looked grand from the outside but rooms were sparse and no bath, only a shower which disappointed the Stoker. We used the dimplex radiators to dry our clothes and I burned my socks on the top of one so there is some validity in the warnings not to leave articles touching them.
Fine dinner in hotel with Carl & Rita. Big Carl looked tired with the riding which was gratifying for us as he is a hard man on the bike. I was in bed by 9:45 while Cherry interneted for the weather tomorrow. Guess what - rain to start, the sunny showers.
--------------------------------------
Well its not raining yet (6am), but the sky aint clear. Breakfast at 7:45 and we are being picked up at 8:45 to go to the campsite and start our final full big day. Lots of miles and more up and downy than yesterday.
Well its not raining yet (6am), but the sky aint clear. Breakfast at 7:45 and we are being picked up at 8:45 to go to the campsite and start our final full big day. Lots of miles and more up and downy than yesterday.
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